I know that when people talk about Bordeaux wines they are filled with questions and confusion. After all, the region is the largest vineyard in the world. There are over 15,000 growers and dozens of famous estates. With a bottle production of some 700 million, it seems a daunting task to make sense of it all. Many people think of the “First Growths”, the Lafittes, the Latours, the Margauxs, the Haut Brions and lump all Bordeauxs into the too expensive category relegated to just the rich and famous. The reality is that these wines make up only a small percentage of the total wine production.
Most Bordeaux are neither famous nor expensive but are good everyday drinking wines.
Bordeaux translates as “along the waters” and the rivers of the region, the Gironde and its two tributaries, the Garonne and Dordogne help to simplify matters by making a left bank and a right bank. Bordeaux is a red wine driven region with over 80% of wine produced in the red category. It should also be said that there is no “Bordeaux Grape.” All wines are blends of two or more varietals. This makes for potentially very complex and elegant wines. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the leading varieties and it is easy to remember that most left bank wines are Cabernet driven (60% or more) and most right bank wines are Merlot driven.
Not to be forgotten, are the white wines where Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon are the major players; in fact up until the 1970’s Bordeaux produced more white wine then red wine.
Let’s look more closely at what each grape brings to the table in forming these blends: Cabernet Sauvignon brings structure, intense and deep flavors and enormous tannins; Merlot can add character,roundness and suppleness to rein in out of control Cab at times; then there are the co-stars: Cabernet Franc which can add a little spiciness, Malbec a touch of softness and Petit Verdot alcohol and backbone.
With the whites: Sauvignon Blanc brings its crisp, lively freshness; Semillon gives its weight and depth; Muscadelle gives its light floral character and Ugni Blanc its neutral blending.
The Medoc(including Haut Medoc) contain the four most prestigious regions : Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac and St Estephe. Along with Graves and Pessac-Leognan makes the Left Bank
The Right Bank features St. Emilion and Pomerol
Generally speaking the smaller the Appelation(read geographic area), the finer the wine.
Of course with all the Bordeaux’s around someone needed to classify them. At the Paris Exposition of 1855 they came up with a list of 61 wines; all red wines that mainly focused on the Medoc and excluded both St.Emillion and Pommerol.
The wines were broken down into 5 categories: there were 4 1st growths, (Chateau Mouton-Rothchild was elevated to make 5 in 1973), 14 2nd growths, 14 3rd growths, 10 4th. growths and 18 5th growths. To add to the confusion there are also three classification levels:
1 Premier Grand Cru Classe
2 Grand Cru Classe
3 Grand Cru
All these rankings can be helpful as a guide but don’t waste your time memorizing them. In the end all these ratings are fragile and temporary at best . The thing to do is TASTE! There is no substitute for that.
There are three things I will leave you with that are important:
First, note that in recent vintages there were three spectacular ones: 2000,2003 and 2005. ANYONE with a brain and some land could make great wine during those years!!! If you see them buy them. The 2000’s are starting to drink well now and the others will follow.
Second, learn about Bordeaux “Second Wines”. When a Chateau makes its “First” wine it blends all the best lots together but what becomes of all that wine that is left over?
It goes toward a Chateau’s less promoted, sometimes secret 2nd wine. It is important to learn these wines because they sell for up to 50% less than their primary wines and based on the wines that I have tasted can be just as good if not better than their much publicized relations. Below are a list of some of my favorite 2nd wines:
PRIMARY SECOND
Mouton Rothchild Chateau Clerc Milon
Leoville-Las Cases Clos du Marquis
Chateau Latour Les Forts de Latour
Chateau Margaux Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux
Chateau Palmer Alter Ego
Chateau Cos d’Estournel De Marbuzet
Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou La Croix
Chateau Lynch-Bages Chateau Haut-Bages-Averous
Chateau Haut-Brion Bahans Haut-Brion
Chateau L’Angelus Carillon de L’Angelus
I have given you 10 for starters. There are many more and often times 2nd wines extend beyond Bordeaux into other wines. Every winery has a portfolio of wines that they make. Be aggressive, find a wine guy in your favorite store and pick their brain and always be trying new things. Sometimes you will be surprised atwhat you find in those 2 for $15 bins
Finally, in the Medoc, there is a collective name for some 200 chateaux. None of these wines are classified. These are called Crus Bourgeois. Here is where you can find the true bargains. This is where drinking and discovering these wines can be so much fun! I will give you three of my favorites: Chase –Spleen, Potensac and Maucaillou
This is just a primer on Bordeaux wines and I am just scratching the surface. There is so much for you to continue learning. In 2000 I discovered the pleasures of a good Bordeaux and of course it was the year for one of the great vintages, but I did not have a lot of money. I talked 2 of my close friends to pool funds with me and I bought 6 cases of wine from all different parts of the region as Futures. It is like playing a wine Stock Market. You just have to believe in Delayed Gratification. Just based on what critics have to say about barrel samples you chose your wine and lock in a price. The WAITING begins. After two years the wine is bottled and shipped to the U.S. for delivery. Once in your hands, you need to lay it down for three, five, maybe ten years before drinking! It is just good that there are so many other great wines to drink. I found that the price I paid per bottle and the price on the shelf could be $20 or more but there are no guarantees
I formed the Howberlisi Wine group and we have continued to buy Bordeaux Futures. In 2003 I purchased 10 cases and in 2005 12. Sthe group has also expanded to six people. There are lots of ways that you can get great wine at good value. Be Creative
Cheers
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